Gavin Dandy and Della Campbell

At first blush, Gavin Dandy and Della Campbell, two of the original founders of Everdale Farm and the force behind The Good Food Project, appear to be classic back-to-the-landers. They hooked up as a couple while tree planting in Northern Ontario, grew up in urban environments, have liberal arts educations and began growing vegetables to help support themselves while living at a friend’s beat-up farm near Marsville.

That was over a quarter century ago when neighbours viewed the young couple as weirdo hippies. It was before local food was a mainstream movement, and before the people who produced it had become savvy entrepreneurs and were described as heroes in magazines like this one. Despite this progress, however, the challenges associated with growing and distributing healthy food continue.

Perched on a south-facing hillside west of Hillsburgh, Everdale Farm exudes an earthy feel with its seemingly chaotic collection of buildings interspersed by gardens, tractors, meeting areas, a farm store and trees. Like its managers, Everdale casually blends into the natural environment. But don’t be fooled. Everdale is a fine-tuned agricultural place of learning, creativity and trail-blazing initiatives such as The Good Food Project. 

What began as a way to avoid wasting leftover fruits and vegetables from their community-shared agriculture program has evolved into a more intentional initiative. In 2017, they started growing extra food specifically for food banks and other frontline agencies such as East Wellington Community Services and the Orangeville Food Bank. 

“The project got rolling during Covid,” Gavin explains, “because the pandemic loosened up funding for food insecurity.” Albeit temporarily. 

They now grow about 20,000 pounds of fruits and vegetables annually for food banks – the equivalent of about 150,000 carrots. But the project hasn’t yet achieved its potential, according to the duo. Gavin envisions producing more than double that amount and, importantly, being compensated fairly for it as part of a nascent movement of “food bank farms.” After nearly 25 years, he longs for the day when Everdale won’t have to rely on notoriously insecure grants and donations. “I’m tired of the system where people doing good things have to get by on nothing while so many people doing bad things get rich,” he says. 

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Like many a farmer, Gavin’s frustration gives way to his passion. He says, “What Della and I have in common is a love of hard work.” Della adds, “Everyone has the same positive reaction to pulling a carrot out of the ground.” So, The Good Food Project offers team-building exercises that encourage participants to get their hands dirty. Corporate or other groups help plant and harvest and can stay overnight in one of the six bedrooms in the new multi-use facility where we are meeting. At a recent event they hosted 89 participants from 18 countries who spoke 13 different languages. 

Faint crow’s feet now decorate their temples, but the whites of both Della’s and Gavin’s penetrating eyes remain unclouded – the result, perhaps, of having consumed what they and their three grown daughters have sown for decades.

Putting aside thoughts of their daily challenges for a magical moment, Della says, “I love the consistency of the farm, having the space for the land to speak for itself, having the space to notice.” Gavin sweeps his hand across the view of the solid bank of cedars, spruce and maples across the valley. “There were few trees when we moved in,” he says. “I want to die on this land. This is it. This is the place.”